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Selecting the best high temperature power supplies for your applications can make the difference between a long and problem free work life and a messy predicament that ends with replacement. There are some essential features of high temperature power supplies that are important to look at when choosing which one is the best. Looking at these particular features can also prove to be an effective way to make this important decision a bit easier.

If you have already worked with specialized units you already have an idea of what to look at. In most cases you simply look at the specifications of the features that are specialized. With some equipment, the other features are not completely standard. You should recognize that as well. With power supplies there are more variables beyond the features that specialty units offer extreme performance in. Those with power supply experience likely already recognize that.

The first thing is to determine the energy input. In some cases there are differences as significant as alternating current and direct current. The result of connecting the wrong input can be burning out the internal components. By noting exactly the input including the watts and amps (if the input is electric) is a good first step to avoiding having a brand new piece of garbage on your hands. In some cases you may need a standalone generator. The power input plays a large role in the unit that will fill your need adequately.

After you have determined the exact input that you will be supplying the device with you can move on to other key features that should be known. These included aspects such as the output that you need. Again there will be differences as notable as alternating and direct current, but the details are important as well. These include aspects such as the specific voltage that you need coming out. You should also determine whether you will need continuous output or occasional output. There are some units that are more efficient at continuous output than others. There are also some units that simply are not made to supply continuous output for extended periods.

Specifically with high temperature power supplies you will need to know the temperatures that the unit can operate at. This is the specialized feature of these units, but without a match in these other categories the unit that you select will not be suitable for the application. If the temperature range for the unit includes your environment’s range you probably have a match. If the range of your environment’s temperature is directly in the center of the unit’s range that it can operate at you will likely receive performance that is among the highest quality that the unit can provide.

For more complete information you may want to contact someone that has experience with the unit such as a qualified distributor. Another option is to contact the manufacturer directly. There are often a number of details that those two sources may know that are not communicated in an examination of the specifications. Finding the best unit is the best approach.

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Will a GFCI 20 Amp 120 Volt receptacle act like a circuit breaker if it is supplied by a 50 Amp breaker?

Found an install in my system that somebody put a 50 Amp Breaker supplying a 20 Amp GFCI Receptacle for a swimming pool pump? They used 12/2 with bond for the supply cable. I am thinking of taking out the 50 Amp Breaker and putting in a 20 Amp Breaker. Anybody know why anyone would have supplied this circuit with a 50 Amp Breaker to a 20 Amp GFCI receptacle? Unless the GFCI Receptacle acts like a breaker and shuts down power over 20 Amps too, I cannot figure out how it is safe? At least the cable should be a 50 Amp carrying capacity cable, right? I think I am going to change out the breaker to 20 Amp. Looks like an accident waiting to happen to me.

You first need to figure out what size the circuit is supposed to be!!! Does it need to be on a 20A, 50A, or none of the above?

Second of all, a GFCI is not a circuit breaker!!! There are so many misconceptions about GFCIs. THEY ARE NOT OVER CURRENT DEVICES. THEY ARE DESIGNED TO TRIP WHEN THERE IS A DIFFERENCE IN CURRENT FROM HOT TO NEUTRAL, AND NOT NECCESSARILY DESIGNED TO TRIP WHEN THERE IS A GROUND FAULT. A 20A GFCI is a rating of the size of the circuit it can go on, not an overcurrent rating because a GFCI is not an overcurrent device. GFCI PROTECTS PEOPLE, NOT EQUIPMENT.

I know why they supplied this circuit with a 50A breaker. It’s because they’re stupid.

Figure out how much amperage the pool pump is rated to draw, and then ask another question of how you should go about wiring it when you have that information. We’ll help you get this pump wired correctly.

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